Tuesday 31 May 2022

Tallinn's worst restaurant

Last week there was much hype about the culinary scene in Estonia. The Michelin Guide had completed their tour of Estonia and named the restaurants that impressed them the most but have you ever wondered about the other end of the spectrum? What are the worst restaurants in Estonia? Which ones should you avoid? I'm not aware of many but the number one restaurant to steer clear of in Tallinn is Caffè Centrale.

Located at Kullassepa 4, Old Town Square, Tallinn.

Last summer I had the very unpleasant experience of visiting Caffè Centrale for the first and only time. I've walked past this restaurant hundreds of times and never once felt tempted to go inside, mainly because whenever I visit Estonia, I prefer to eat Estonian cuisine, you can eat Italian food anywhere. Unfortunately, last August I foolishly dined there and bitterly regretted it afterwards. It was a complete waste of money.

It happened by accident really. I was in Tallinn with my family and my brother said he knew a great Estonian restaurant he once visited with his friends and suggested we should have dinner there. Eager to try it out, we followed him to where he thought the restaurant was, only to find he had forgotten the exact location. I asked him if he remembered the name of the restaurant but he said no. He was sure it was somewhere near the Viru Gate but he was mistaken. So, walking back to Raekoja Plats, we considered a few other places, before we found ourselves back near our hotel when someone said 'why don't we just go here?' We were standing outside Caffè Centrale.

So what's so bad about Caffè Centrale?

From the moment I sat down at the table, I knew Caffè Centrale was not a quality restaurant. Firstly, the table was dirty and I had to wipe it clean myself. The waiter was completely useless, we had to ask for menus and we had to ask to order,  he took no initative what-so-ever. I was surprised he couldn't speak Estonian, in fact he barely spoke English either. When the wine arrived I found it overpriced, considering the size of the glass, and everyone found something to complain about with their meals. We ordered a mix of pizza and pasta dishes and I would not consider one of them acceptable. Too oily, undercooked, not enough toppings. One of the things I found the most puzzling was where the food actually came from. The waiter carried the food in from outside which meant the kitchen was in a different building to the restaurant! I watched this in utter amazement.

Thinking about Caffè Centrale now I realise it's the only ''Italian'' restaurant I've ever been to that has not been run by Italians. It's quite unusual in that regard. The only thing this restaurant has got going for it is its location, it may attract tourists but I sincerely doubt it gets repeat customers. If I had to describe their food in one word it would be 'slop'.

I recently had a look on Trip Advisor to see what other people thought of Caffè Centrale and I found many had had even worse experiences than mine. I read through the reviews and had to laugh at some of them, they were truly awful. A common theme was dirty glasses (one person ordered a glass of sparkling water but the glass smelt of beer), soups with a greasy layer of fat on top, pizzas with barely any cheese and undercooked meals. One person said the waiter asked to borrow their lighter to light the candle on their table, while another annoyed customer said the waiter took away one of their menus to give to another table (before they had even ordered) because they didn't have enough. 

Caffè Centrale is truly an abominable restaurant and I feel duty bound to say something about it. It's the number one restaurant to avoid in Tallinn.  

Saturday 28 May 2022

The life of Estonian cellist Jüri Täht

When 91-year-old World War II refugee Jüri turned on his TV on the morning of February 24th, instead of festive Estonian Independence Day celebrations, he saw a video of the Russian invasion of Ukraine. He felt light-headed and if he hadn’t already been seated in a wheelchair, he would have lost his balance. Not in a million years would he have imagined seeing Russia attacking a free country again.


In this new book Stargazing: An Extraordinary Life by Evelin Täht we discover the story of Juri Täht. He was considered a musical prodigy with perfect pitch but his dreams were interrupted by the outbreak of World War Two. No matter the difficult life circumstances, he still pursued his dream.  After fleeing Estonia during World War Two, Juri Täht started a new life in America and followed his passion and became a professional cellist. He was became a long-time member of the Don Shirley Trio and performed all over the United States. You can learn more about his life hereEstonian cellist Jüri Täht

Thursday 26 May 2022

Estonian restaurants 180° and NOA Chef's Hall receive star rating from Michelin Guide

The inaugural Michelin Guide Estonia 2022 was released yesterday. After visits from anonymous inspectors, 31 restaurants in Estonia have earned a place on the Michelin Guide. Two restaurants were honoured with one Michelin Star, five restaurants were awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, and two restaurants were highlighted with a Michelin Green Star for sustainability. NOA Chef's Hall and 180° were the Estonian restaurants that impressed the inspectors the most and they have been awarded a prestigious Michelin Star for their outstanding cuisine.

Estonia's Michelin star restaurants:

NOA Chef's Hall in Tallinn is set within a striking modern building (where you’ll also find restaurant NOA). Guests are invited to start their evening with an aperitif served in a romantic lounge with a splendid view of Tallinn Bay and the Gulf of Finland – then it’s on to the restaurant where an open kitchen takes centre stage and the open fire is used to great effect. The engaging 7 course menu comprises complex, highly original dishes packed full of complementary flavours and layers of texture.

The stylish yet relaxed 180° by Matthias Diether sits within a modern harbour development a couple of miles outside Tallinn city centre and is named after the 180° view from its U-shaped open kitchen. After snacks in the futuristic bar, guests can enjoy either a 4 or 6 course tasting menu where ambitious, showy creations exhibit great attention to detail and display an array of both flavour and texture contrasts.

As with all Michelin Guide restaurant selections around the globe, the independent and anonymous Michelin inspectors evaluated Estonia's restaurants taking into consideration five criteria:

- The quality of the ingredients

- The mastery of culinary techniques

- The harmony of flavours

- The personality of the chef as expressed in the dishes

- Consistency across the entire menu and over time

Monday 23 May 2022

Thousands of Estonians sing “Oi u luzi chervona kalyna” in support of Ukraine

On Sunday evening, thousands of singers from all over Estonia gathered at Tallinn's historic Song Festival Grounds to perform the Ukrainian national song "Red on the Meadow". The song was adapted into a four-part choir song by composer Jonas Tarm and conducted by Hirvo Surva. Choral singing has always been a powerful cultural phenomenon that Estonians have repeatedly used in their own fight for freedom. Now Estonia sings in support of Ukraine.

Sunday 22 May 2022

Sand sculpture in Tõrva honours Volodymyr Zelensky

In the small Estonian resort town of Tõrva in Valga County, a sand sculpture has been made in the image Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelensky. The sculpture was built by Ukrainian war refugees who live in the area and was sponsored by local entrepreneurs. It took 72 metric tons of sand to erect the five metre tall sculpture that depicts Zelenskyy as the Statue of Liberty. The town is planning to surround the statue with other sculptures and call the area 'Freedom Park'. The park will stay there until autumn.

Friday 20 May 2022

Lennart Meri's Finno-Ugric documentary: Veelinnurahvas (1970)

Before Lennart Meri become the highly respected President of Estonia, he was a writer, translator and filmmaker. He produced several documentaries and published five books during his lifetime, his best known work was Hõbevalge (Silver White) which is a travel memoir narrating the history of Europe and Estonia. Meri was a passionate ethnographer and in his 1970 documentary Veelinnurahvas he takes us on a journey through the vast and colourful world of the Uralic peoples.

Tuesday 17 May 2022

Ukraine's winning Eurovision song 'Stefania' performed in Estonian

Kalush Orchestra's winning song Stefania has been translated into Estonian by Marek Sadam and rapper Genka. Stefania has been widely praised for inspiring feelings of hope during this dark time. Ott Lepland and Genka performed this piano rendition of the song on ETV yesterday.


Monday 16 May 2022

City of Tallinn honours Volodymyr Zelenskyy with medal

The Tallinn City Council awarded the President of Ukraine Volodymyr Zelenskyy with the Coat of Arms of Tallinn as a sign of deep respect.

The Russian invasion of Ukraine has revealed the resolve and strong leadership of Zelenskyy. He is now one of the most respected and admired men in the world.

Sunday 15 May 2022

Estonia's Stefan 13th place at Eurovision 2022

Stefan faced tough competition in this year's Eurovision Song Contest Grand Final in Turin. Sweden, the United Kingdom, Ukraine and Spain were all tipped to be favourites, and despite Stefan giving a good performance, he failed to make it into the top ten.

I found the overall quality of the songs in this year's competition were better compared to previous years. There were a few stand-out performances, namely the United Kingdom who've had a long succession of lacklustre entries. The UK's Sam Ryder gave an excellent performance and it was clear he loved what he was doing. He deserved to come in at second place.

The winner of the night was Ukraine. I particularly liked their song because 1) they sang in their native language 2) the set was visually appealing 3) the song was a mixture of folk and rap and even though I couldn't understand the lyrics, it had a catchy tune that was easy to hum along to. Congratulations Ukraine! 

2022 Winners - Ukraine's Kalush Orchestra 
English translation of the lyrics can be found here.

Final scoreboard

Wednesday 11 May 2022

Kaja Kallas: Europe’s New Iron Lady

Prime Minister Kaja Kallas is is one of the most lucid and courageous world leaders right now. She has become the EU’s strongest advocate for an uncompromising response to Russia. In this article written by Jeremy Cliffe for the New Stateman we gain an insight into Kallas's background and learn how she is changing the geopolitical scene.


To read this excellent interview with Kaja Kallas, please click here.

Tuesday 10 May 2022

Iceland to name new streets in honour of the Baltic countries

Here's a bit of heart-warming news from Iceland. After a meeting held on May 4th the City Planning Council approved three streets in the new district of Ártúnshöfði in Reykjavík to be named in honour of the Baltic States - Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Long live the friendship between these nations!

Monday 9 May 2022

Happy Europe Day!

May 9 is Europe Day, a day celebrating peace and unity in Europe. The first recognition of Europe Day was by the Council of Europe in 1964 and it was later adopted by the European Union in 1985. Europe Day began by commemorating the 1950 Schuman Declaration which placed French and West German coal and steel production under a single authority that would later open up to other European countries. The Netherlands, Belgium, Italy, and Luxembourg soon followed, creating the European Coal and Steel Community that later went on to form the European Union. 

The EU Council dedicates this year's Europe Day to the people of Ukraine.

Infographic of Estonia.

Sunday 8 May 2022

Happy Mother's Day! Head Emadepäeva!

Mother's Day is a special day on the Estonian calendar. It's a day to give thanks to the woman who nurtured us and guided us even when her words were sometimes hard to hear.  Every year Estonian houses around the world hold celebrations in honour of Mother's Day, it 's a great way for the community to come together and show our appreciation. Head Emadepäeva!


Thursday 5 May 2022

Estonia to release new two-euro coin designed by Ukrainian refugee

Eesti Pank was in search of a way to support Ukraine in their fight for freedom and decided to run a design competition open to Ukrainians. The winning design was created by Daria Titova, who is originally from Kharkiv, and is currently studying at the Estonian Academy of Arts. The coin features a girl as a symbol of tenderness, protecting a bird in her hand. The design also features an ear of wheat. The text on the coin 'Slava Ukraini' symbolises the independence and resistance of Ukraine. It is the first time that a coin issued by Eesti Pank features text in a foreign language.

The specially designed coin will start to go into circulation at the end of this year, however Eesti Pank will start to sell a coin card featuring the same coin this summer. Revenue from selling the coin card will go to the Ukrainian central bank. Eesti Pank is initially planning to produce 40,000 coin cards, but is prepared to increase the number if demand should prove strong. 

Tuesday 3 May 2022

Estonia ranks fourth in the 2022 World Press Freedom Index

The World Press Freedom Index has just been released and Estonia is doing very well in 4th place out of 180 countries. Estonia has climbed nine spots since last year, from 15th to 4th place. Free media is a cornerstone of a free society and Estonia values its freedom. Nice to see our Nordic neighbours performing well too.


Monday 2 May 2022

Trad. Attack! release Estonian version of the patriotic Ukrainian folk song - "Oh, the Red Viburnum in the Meadow'

Oh, the Red Viburnum in the Meadow (Ukrainian: Ой у лузі червона калина - Oi u luzi chervona kalyna) is a Ukrainian patriotic march, written by the composer Stepan Charnetsky in 1914, in honour of the Legion of Ukrainian Sich Riflemen. The song has become hugely popular again since Russia invaded Ukraine in February and has been remixed many times. The Estonian band Trad. Attack! recently recorded an Estonian version of the song translated as Punast lodjapuukest mure painab


English lyrics.

Oh, in the meadow a red kalyna has bent down low,
For some reason, our glorious Ukraine is in sorrow.
And we'll take that red kalyna and we will raise it up,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!
And we'll take that red kalyna and we will raise it up,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!

Do not bend low, oh red kalyna, you have a white flower,
Do not worry, glorious Ukraine, you have a free people.
And we'll take that red kalyna and will raise it up,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!
And we'll take that red kalyna and will raise it up,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!

Marching forward, our fellow volunteers, into a bloody fray,
For to free our brother Ukrainians from the shackles of Moscow.
And we, our brother Ukrainians, we will then liberate,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!
And we, our brothers Ukrainians, will then liberate,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!

Oh in the field of early spring wheat, there's a golden furrow,
Then began the Ukrainian riflemen to engage the enemy.
And we'll take that precious, early wheat and will gather it,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!
And we'll take that precious, early wheat and will gather it,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!

When the stormy winds blow forth from the wide steppes,
They will glorify, throughout Ukraine, the Sich riflemen.
And we'll take the glory of the riflemen preserving it,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!
And we'll take the glory of the riflemen preserving it,
And we shall cheer up our glorious Ukraine, hey - hey!